Traversing the Heights: Robert Moses & the Trans-Manhattan Expressway

Walk the island of Manhattan at its thinnest point in Washington Heights

Robert Moses—for better or worse—has shaped the neighborhoods and, therefore, the lives of millions of people in New York. His vision of automobiles zipping unimpeded through the metropolis, coupled with his unchecked power, led him to build highways he believed would bring NYC into the 21^st Century. With the benefit of hindsight, actually walking through the neighborhoods tasked with carrying the burden, we can further inform our critiques of his legacy.

I-95 runs from Miami to the Canadian border in Maine, and on this tour we will traverse the portion of it that passes through Manhattan, officially known as the Trans-Manhattan Expressway. This key piece of infrastructure connects Manhattan with the Bronx via the Hamilton Bridges, and with New Jersey via the Othmar Ammann’s magnificent George Washington Bridge. In between, we will encounter the ugly side of highway development—demolition, neglect, pollution—alongside the neighborhood’s beauty despite the challenges, including the vibrant Bridge Apartments that sit right on top of the highway and the architecturally audacious GW Bridge Bus Terminal.

We will end the tour with a visit to the transcendent George Washington Bridge.

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Highlights on the walk:

• Hamilton Bridge Skate Park
• The Deck – New Croton Aqueduct Blow-Off
• Washington Bridge
• Harlem River
• DEP 179 St Pumping Station
• Former 178th and 179th St Vehicle Tunnels
• Alexander Hamilton Bridge Interchange
• Trans-Manhattan Expressway
• Bridge Apartments
• First Hispanic Baptist Church in Manhattan
• MTA 174th St Yard
• GW Bridge Bus Terminal
• George Washington Bridge

Tour Highlights

On the walking tour, get ready to…

• Dive into the history of the displacement of New Yorkers and the neighborhood changes that happened with this mega project
• See what the highway could not destroy — the beautiful sections of Washington Heights where the vibrant neighborhood still stands
• Walk the length of Manhattan from east to west at one of the thinnest points on the island
• Learn about a massive apartment complex built over an active transportation corridor
• See the section of the Trans-Manhattan Expressway that runs through Washington Heights

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Duration

Tour: 2.5 hours and about 2 miles of walking

This tour starts at Happy Deli (1408 St Nicholas Ave) and ends at NorthWalk (180^th St and Cabrini Blvd).

Accessibility: There are some stairs on this tour along with navigating New York City sidewalks.

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Dive deeper into NYC history by listening to the Bowery Boys’ episode “Robert Moses: Did he save New York — or destroy it?”